This rail welded heeeeaps nicer than the previous one, perhaps it had less contamination in the metal, or we got it to a more satisfactory temperature before welding.įairly self explanatory here. Since I super love taking welding pictures, here's Sheepers welding it all up.Īnd this is what you're left with following stage one of the process. This is where the inlet and damper/regulator thing originally attached. I drank beers and offered unhelpful advice mainly. Unbeknownst to me, this was a bluetop bigport rail, not a smallport rail which has different injector spacing, as the above image illustrates - after the fact of course. Which was a spare with the box of gear that came with the 4AGE. As I was intending to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR), the plan called to lop off all of the attachments on the OEM rail, drill out the plugs from each end and weld on -6 AN fittings at either end. Step one of this was to modify the factory 4AGE fuel rail, as in OEM configuration the inlet, regulator and outlet were all mounted on the top face of the rail extrusion, with each end capped off where it was cut from factory. So the next step of the process was to get the fuel system pretty much finished. I only need to cover the temp and fuel gauges, so will sort out some kind of clear plastic to glue over the top of them and it should nestle nicely in the factory location.ĭiscussion in signature if you want to yarn about it. Then secured each of the instruments into it's new home! I won't be able to reinstate the clear plastic cover over over these two - they sit proud of the mating surface for that cover, but also the fact the instruments have lenses of their own means it results in some weird/annoying reflections. Went over the edges of the gaping chasms I'd created with a burr to tidy them all up, radius the corners and remove any sharp edges. But it worked a treat - this is just after the initial cut, and some sanding with a fine sanding drum at a low speed finished it off nicely, but I think it might be prudent to fill it with urethane or something similar just to stop any dust getting in. Which ended up being more than just the bezel. So I did what any sane person would do, and employed my newly acquired Dremel skills of precision destruction to chop the bottom off the speedo. That needed to be ground out circular to accept the main body of the gauge, but the bezel itself was still too large to fit in the supplied space. The tacho fit into the fascia perfectly as it was - you'll note in this shot, there is a flat on the bottom of the aperture for the speedo. Until eventually, I had carefully hacked the back of each side out and they were roughly (literally!) ready to accept their new instrument overlords. Suffice to say, it needed to GTFO so I went and invested in a variable speed Dremel and some tool bits for it. There's all sorts of annoying bits of plastic and shit going on behind the instruments. The speedo is slightly too large in both bezel and body diameter, and both of them foul on mouldings behind them. When you try to fit the gauges into the cluster, this happens. But I have a stack (lol) of other auxiliary gauges I am using which match the speedo in terms of bezel design, but the tach is the odd one out in the Stack range. pressing the go buttons and more than one Stack tacho leaping into life as the engine fired. the grand marshal instructs 'drivers start your engines,' then you get a montage of Larry, Brocky, Tricky Dicky et al. On the speed side, I wanted to install this Stack ST3801 speedo - it reads an optimistic 260km/h so I'm sure further developments will be needed to ensure I can take this car off the clock.įor keeping an eye on revs, I have always wanted to pop a Stack tacho into a car - these remind me of watching the start-up montages of Bathurst years past, you know the one. Starting point was this factory flat front KP61 tacho dash cluster - I wanted to cut up one of these rare, hard to find examples because it meant I could install the tacho I wanted and still retain the OEM fuel gauge and temp (temp not so much of an issue but anyway) which you'll note are included in a combination gauge on the non-tacho cluster that my car came with. This afternoon, after ferrying the sheepers down to Hamilton I set about modifying the dash cluster to accomodate my new instruments - yes that's right, I did a thing on this myself.
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